River Trail, Silver Lake, Golden Lake, and more!
It has been almost a month since my last visit and even though my last post included some exploration of Harriman State Park, I wanted to go a little further this time. And as a bonus, the River Trail had opened back up. It has been closed all spring for bird nesting. My original plan for this visit was to finish where I had left off on my previous trip, explore the area, and find locations I felt might be productive sitting spots in the future. Still on the mend, I have to keep it simple and low impact for now.
Saturday Morning
No surprise, I awoke before my alarm went off which I had set for 5:00 Saturday morning. Eager with anticipation for the day ahead, I felt quite energized and rested. My back and shoulder were still tender from my seizure last month but I couldn’t stand it any longer. I had an itch that only the outdoors could scratch.
Harriman State Park doesn’t open until 7:00 which is later than I like to arrive to places. By that time, the sun is up already and the best morning light is going quickly. I suppose if I wanted to play the game, I had to follow the rules. I arrived by 6:55 and headed for the River Trail first. Time was running short.
As is my usual goal, I was the first one to hit the trail. My wife loves to tease me about not wanting to share “my” public lands. It’s not that I don’t like sharing, I just like to be first. The early bird gets the worm type of deal. And yes, fewer people means less spooking of wildlife but also keep in mind the advantages of more popular grounds. Animals have become more accustomed to people to a certain degree and offer some photographic moments that otherwise might not be possible. And should anything go wrong, there’s a greater chance of being found and assisted if needed.
For the next hour, I walked all along the Henry’s Fork of the Snake River, watching the steam rise off the water. This area is notorious for the morning fog that creeps in most mornings. When you’re standing along the river banks it’s quite peaceful but if you’re driving down Highway 20 at 65 mph it’s not so fun.
While the river walk didn’t provide much in the way of wildlife. It more than made up for with scenic views all around. I did see some elk off in the distance but conditions weren’t ideal for photos at that range. I found myself stopping frequently just to enjoy the sights and smells. A meadow of wildflowers was buzzing with bee activity as well. By now the anglers were all beginning to arrive and prepare for their hobby. Moving on now to finish the previous hike.
After completing the River Trail, I was conveniently placed in the main access parking lot and main trailhead. A quick look at the map showed I could get back where I had left off last month along the shores of Silver Lake and loop back around to the river and my car. A perfect, easy-going trail. The parking lot was filling up though so I needed to get moving.
I hadn’t gone more than 100 yards from the trailhead and I heard the jingle of bells. A lot of trail bikers attach bells to their handlebars which make noise with every bump. Smart behavior especially since they are moving a lot quicker than other hikers. Bears, moose, and of course other people can hear them coming and move out of the way.
I moved off to the side to let the mountain bikers pass. Movement in the bushes to my right caught my eye. It’s hard to believe that the sound meant to alert animals helped me locate an animal but that’s what happened.
A moose was feeding in some bushes just to the north of the trail. She was buried enough that unless she was moving she was well hidden. I can’t say whether or not I would have spotted her without the bikers causing me to stop. Regardless, it was time to camp out under a tree for a while and wait for her to make her move.
Once I was set for what I hoped would be my most advantageous angle I took just one quick photo. The one-click technique as I like to call it serves a few purposes. First, it alerts them to my presence from a comfortable distance for both of us. And second, it helps them get more familiar with the sound from a distance and I can close the gap if necessary, continuing to shoot. It’s not perfect, and sometimes it backfires and all I see is animal tail but I often employ it when photographing animals who can easily stomp me into jelly.
On this particular morning, I got rewarded with a curious glance in my direction followed by a shift slightly towards me. This is always the most tense moment for me, it’s make-or-break time for both of us. It’s not so much fear but the anticipation of not knowing what will happen next. Each of us waiting for the other to make a move.
After a few minutes, she went back about her business of feeding and I continued waiting for my moment while also shooting a few random bursts, more to keep her used to the noise than a productive shot. Finally, she got more comfortable and began to feast in earnest. Still, she remained mostly obscured by the bushes.
I kept shooting, hoping for something more when another motion caught my attention. Out of the bushes appeared a young calf. Well, that escalated quickly. This was a different dance now.
Happy for my decision to build a slight relationship beforehand, I now enjoyed a brief moment with them. I was constantly cursed with branches blocking my view but I kept shooting anyways.
After a few minutes of this, the calf started wondering in my direction. Momma was instantly alert now and I began to plan my exit. I gathered my gear, making as much noise as possible, and continued to Silver Lake. I kept a watchful eye behind me as a precaution but we never crossed paths again. That is always my ultimate goal. I want to see them behaving naturally and I want to leave them still behaving naturally and calm.
Arriving at Silver Lake I turned towards the south. There were a few songbirds now as well as some Terns catching fish in the lake. I can’t recall seeing a Foster’s Tern before and for sure I’ve never photographed them. I am not sure how long I stayed there, I can only say I went trigger crazy. By the time I had left the action, I had shot over 1000 photos of terns!
The Terns would circle over the lake searching for fish. Once suitable prey is located, they contort and twist while tucking their wings in and diving for the water at full speed. Their success rate was impressive.
Sometimes, rather than dive for the fish, they would skim the surface and snatch them right lit of the water. My other favorite part is after they start to gain altitude again, they shake violently and the water just flies off of them. It’s quite fascinating to watch.
Despite my many attempts, I never did get the photo I wanted. Wildlife does what wildlife does and we photographers just have to accept that fact. I still got a lot of fun photos and I had a blast at the same time. I can always hope for better luck next time.
Once I had my fill of photographing terns I headed back for the trail and my car. By now it was getting hot and a lot of the activity was calming down anyway. I realized though on my walk out, that I had covered very little new ground nor found a suitable sitting spot. At least I had enjoyed myself and seen some pretty neat animals as well.
Sunday Morning
That same evening, my wife made plans to go paddle boarding with friends the next day so I decided why not go hit a few more trails. There are still plenty of miles left I haven’t wandered yet. And so once again I was up early and on the road.
I wanted to start near the southern end of Silver Lake this time and go to Golden Lake and loop back down Thurmon Creek. Still need to try to keep this low impact and low intensity for now.
Almost immediately after arriving at the lake, I saw another moose crossing the lake. From where I was driving it was close to half a mile away but continuing to the trailhead would cut that distance in half. Already getting excited and I hadn’t even parked the car yet.
Eager as I was to pursue the moose, I took my time up the trail. I certainly didn’t want to surprise a moose and this is the same area I saw the moose and calf yesterday. If I happen to find it again later great, if not, that’s fine as well.
The whole scene was just calm and serene. Even if I come home empty-handed, I always enjoy these types of mornings. No wind, just the sounds of birds, the smells of wildflowers and pine, and a fresh crispness in the morning air.
A trio of pelicans were drifting along the water, breaking the near mirror conditions. The light suddenly broke through the clouds and fog and illuminated the pelicans and a photographic moment opened up right before me. Can it get any better than this?
What happened next slightly confused me. Around the corner from which I had just come more pelicans appeared. I didn’t notice them as I walked by a moment ago and I did not see them fly in, yet there they were. Not only that, they were so excited about their photo session that they threw me a parade.
While that was pretty fun to watch, it was nothing compared to the show they gave me on my return trip. More details on that further on but for now the story moves forward.
For the rest of my walk along the eastern shore of the lake, the trail meandered through the forest and over rolling hills. It had rained the night before and the trail was pure mud. The kind of mud that sticks and builds up under your shoes until you’re walking an inch taller before it finally peels off. The sun, peeking through the trees, illuminating all the pollen dust in the air added a nice golden touch to the whole scene. I was more cautious and alert now as I was certain the moose had crossed over near here.
I reached the northern end of the lake and kept to the northern trail towards Golden Lake. In hindsight, I wish I had taken the trail along Thurmon Creek and let it loop me up north. That path would have gotten me to the same destination and perhaps saved me some major grief later on. Then again, I might have missed another great wildlife moment. Who knows what might have been had I taken that trail.
By now the sun was getting higher up in the sky and it was getting warmer. The trail continued to be fairly easygoing with no major hills or climbs as it wandered through the trees. Birds were everywhere but moving rapidly and I struggled to even locate them before they moved again. Squirrels and chipmunks were busy collecting food or nest material and only stopped to give me verbal warnings when I passed by.
I arrived at the next trail intersection still feeling good about my goal. Taking a breather in the shade for a moment, I took in the view. I still felt good and I wanted to see Golden Lake so I pressed on.
For the next little while the trail remained easygoing. The sun was out in full force and I was starting to feel more fatigued. Soon the trail cut hard and it was time to climb a bit. This should have been my first sign that something was amiss but I was just happy to be there.
I shouldn’t say that this part was difficult necessarily, but it certainly did increase in intensity. Normally a trail like this is a walk in the park for me. This time however I felt very tired and the slight ache I’ve had for the last month in my back and shoulders became a throbbing pain. My pack in particular felt heavy on my shoulders.
I kept telling myself I had to be getting close and to push on. The rains from last night had flooded down the trail leaving a muddy mess to climb up. In some places, the trail completely vanished and was replaced with mud canyons. I thought about taking photos to show the trail but I was struggling just to not slip and fall down the mountain. At least now for the final push, I was in the trees and shade again.
Once I was a little over halfway up, I detected motion ahead through the trees. Another adrenaline dump for me. My already shaky muscles are now trembling like an aspen tree. Just up ahead, a small herd of elk cows and calves were grazing in the forest and along the trail. I decided to take a much-needed break to watch the elk until they were done eating or they discovered me, whichever came first.
Given our proximity, I was pleasantly surprised that I stayed undetected as long as I did. The elk did well at blocking most of my shots with trees and branches, making it difficult for me. Eventually, I heard an elk bark and I knew the gig was up. I snapped as many photos as I could before they vanished into the trees. That was a rush!
The break did me some good and I pushed through and at last saw the next trail marker. Marker number 21… Not 19. I had gone in the wrong direction and had traveled to the ridgeline. Everything began to make sense at least. This spot looked as good as any for a lunch break anyway. I ate my lunch viewing the entire valley below. Even with some haze, it was incredible.
My lunch break got interrupted though as an elk bark pierced the silence. Shivers down my spine, that was close. Turning slowly, I made eye contact with a cow elk 20 feet away across the trailway. It seemed the elk herd I had spooked had gone around the ridge and reached the top shortly after me and we met again.
Our exchange was very brief. She told me off in a series of vocalizations and a few others joined in as well as they tore off deeper into the woods.
With the elk gone and my break over, I had to make a call. Go back the way I came, or continue to Golden Lake. There was a third option that continued along the ridge to Heart Attack Hill but I didn’t think I was up for that one. Going back the way I had come didn’t sound very adventurous either so I continued for the lake.
At least most of my walking from here on out would be either downhill or relatively flat ground. But there was going to be very little cover from the sun and I had close to three miles still to my car. Ultimately I had wanted to do the Thurmon Creek Loop to go back but backtracking did not sound appealing at all right now. The meadow loop might add distance but it’s more popular with people and is easy walking.
Golden Lake was a lovely lake in its own right but I didn’t feel particularly inspired at the moment. Perhaps it was my physical state of being influencing my mind as well. There was a young family that had just arrived at the lake as well. The small kids were entertaining as they ran around wildly, thoroughly enjoying themselves. They had rented one of the yurts that are available for overnight stays. I might have to look into renting one and bringing my kids up for an adventure.
The rest of the walk through the meadow was long and uneventful. A few birds here and there. I was fine with that though. Exhaustion had fully settled in and I hurt with every single step and my pack was feeling heavier.
I got through the meadow and the ranch sections of the trail and now turned back west towards the lake. It’s a very small section of trail and doesn’t appear to be traveled as much. I however found it to be a fascinating area with tons of potential. I’d like to return soon and just sit for an entire morning watching nature unfold.
The lake was just ahead now and as promised, the pelican show continues. A large grouping of pelicans were herding fish into the shallower waters and feasting. The level of cooperation is amazing and it’s a fun spectacle to observe. I did take a short video and I apologize in advance for the quality. I had no energy left to setup my tripod and my 500mm lens was feeling heavy in my sore and shaky arms.
In the end, I hiked over 7 miles. My attempt at taking it easy had failed by my hand. That’s not to say I didn’t enjoy myself. Quite the contrary! It might just take me a bit until I’m ready to go again.
Twist Ending
The intensifying pain in my back convinced me to go see a doctor. As it turns out, I possibly have a fractured vertebrae that is from an older incident. It had never bothered me until my seizure. I’m no doctor but I’m assuming my seizure affected this and now is causing me pain and weakness. I am hopeful for a speedy recovery and that this won’t affect my love of being outdoors in nature.